Introduction
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| Flying in to London, early morning |
I sat down in the
Citroen, looked around, pushed the start button for the diesel car. Familiarity is comforting, but as travelers know traveling means sometimes adapting moment by moment. This was one of those moments, The onboard GPS wasn't that difficult to navigate, but experience had taught me not to leave the Avis parking lot in Glasgow before I made sure I had a working unit. As luck would have it the unit would not recognize my first address. Ten minutes of trial and error had produced no response for the
Uplawmoor Hotel so I returned to the Avis counter and Andrew accompanied me back out to the parking lot to confirm. What initially was a major concern, Andrew solved in short order. He grabbed a portable Garmin unit and we plugged it in to the cigarette lighter socket. The
Garmin worked flawlessly for my entire trip. Recommended, especially when you don't have paper maps and I had not anticipated how useful geo-enabled pdf maps would be with my iPhone (and internal GPS) on the road (which I would later use in tandem with the Garmin).
Flight
The long flight (3-hour) from Salt Lake to Philadelphia was a precursor for my seven-hour night flight to Heathrow and London and eventual destination of Glasgow. Fortunately, given my health, I managed to survive the uneventful Delta flight (moving about enough to keep my blood circulating) touching down at Heathrow at 0630 in the morning. Although I had slept a bit on the flight my internal clock needed a reset. Fortunately, I managed to stay awake to catch a third plane for the short 1-hour flight to Glasgow later that morning. Thus, in hindsight, my rental car and easy drive to my initial destination in Glasgow, the Uplawmoor Hotel, gave me a chance to catch a late afternoon nap that would re-charge my batteries enough to spur an evening walk.
Taking that first step on a journey can sometimes be difficult. This Scotland trip, a simmering issue that began when I was a kid in Pittsburgh, that was stoked during a family UK "roundabout" trip ten or so years ago from Heathrow and London to Salisbury, through Wales and single tracks, into Scotland and the castle at Dunoon, and ended following a late traffic-driven drive and missed Heathrow flight. Lots of sticky notes that I could post on this or that, but let's just say traveling to Scotland on this trip was meant to explore the Highlands that I have only read about and to somehow connect fast-fading family dots on my Father's side that were but hints from the past.
I had made it to Scotland in one piece with a rental car and now had ten days ahead of me.
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| Lamont Clan Meeting |
The Clan Meeting on First Day
As an American who had signed on as a
Clan member "back when" I had never imagined actually taking advantage of nor meeting Clan members in Scotland. But as luck would have it I discovered through Facebook acquaintances and Clan correspondence that there would be a meeting (and that I was invited) in downtown Glasgow at the Novotel Hotel on Friday morning (18th of November). There were eight members of the
Lamont Clan Society present and what followed was a well-organized meeting with the main agenda item being the annual Lamont Clan gathering that was held in
Portavadie this past August. Everyone agreed it was a success and remarked on the great music (especially for younger members) and the excellent food. Discussion followed regarding next year's gathering with a final decision for holding "The Gathering" in Portavadie again next year. But the highlight of the meeting was my discovering, which I had not known before was the Clan's ownership of the Manse at Inverchaolain. I would actually be allowed to stay there (and I did for three nights) on the Loch (Loch Striven) and explore Lamont artifacts with Mary Lamb, the curator and visit nearby sites. What a treat, and it was!
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| UK Ordnance Map of Inverchaolain |
But, before leaving Glasgow we made sure to visit a nearby restaurant for lunch where I was rewarded with my first ever taste of haggis (and I actually liked it).
Inverchaolain and the Strone Dearg
The Lamonts' little kingdom forms part of the modern Argyllshire—the ancient Oirthir Ghaidheal, or sea-coast of the Gael
The drive to Inverchaolain from Glasgow was not that difficult since I had Mary to guide me. We drove down to Greenock to take the ferry across the Firth of Clyde to Dunoon.
Dunoon, a sleepy village of 8,000 or so on the water, is the first real site for the Lamont Clan. Just south of here is the site of the 12th century
Toward Castle, in ruins now, but still easily visible and part of the Castle Toward estate.
Castle Toward, still standing today, was built by the Clan in the 19th century and is a popular tourist site (and in the midst of an ownership transfer these days).
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| The Manse at Inverchaolain |
In April 2005, my family explored the UK via a rental car. Leaving from Heathrow and London we navigated to Stonehenge and Salisbury, thence on to Wales, and to our ultimate destination of Dunoon and Toward Castle. It was an incredible trip, but only hastened my interest in a follow up trip to further explore. So having visited Dunoon and the Toward Castle on that last trip, this October was more of a focus on the landscape, geography, and Kilfinan. I am not sure what I was looking for and still am uncertain as to whether I fulfilled my "quest" so to speak.
With Mary, we hastened on to Inverchaolain on A815 and Glenstriven Road. I really had no idea nor image conjured in my mind as to what "The Manse" would look like. Aside from Robert, one of our Clan members mentioning at the Glasgow meeting that the Manse is the spiritual home of the Lamonts, I had no prior knowledge of the site.
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| Loch Striven and the Manse |
But, as places go, my past is set in singular landscapes and experiences that have persisted in many ways through time. It is just the way it is. Somehow, of the Lamont side, I would expect no less. The Manse and environs, beautifully fitted in to Loch Striven at the mouth of the Inverchaolain Burn (stream); site of the 19th century Church or Lamont Chapel (originally built in the early 1800s and re-built in 1912); and nearby the remains of an even earlier Chapel dedicated to
St. Bridget. Three nights I spent on
Loch Striven at the Manse. My opportunity there was a chance to explore surrounding lands (hiking a bit), to kayak briefly one morning to get the feel of the water, to peruse the many historical materials (and scanning a few), and to visit the Lamont Chapel, now owned by the Church of Scotland (who are contemplating selling the old church). Mary was also kind enough to introduce me to the Toward Church and to nearby sites.
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| Lamont Chapel, Church of Scotland |
But, one moment as I entered the grounds of the Lamont Chapel, I became overcome with a sense of I am not sure what. I think that I sense the Lamonts have spread far and wide because of many events and happenings. Sad and tragic in the deepening twilight, but as in the Sun sets it is meant to rise again. The Lammies are somehow intertwined. I had decided to not stop at many well-known and significant Scottish sites, including
Rossyln Chapel. Perhaps another day. But hints at the Lamonts of old having been crusaders. There is much myth in the 12th and 13th centuries and earlier times. Best to let old events lie still, Yet there is always hope that past echoes carry much meaning.
There is much I could mention of the area, especially of Cowal, but past events have faded leaving only stone etchings and myth that ebb with the tide. But, only for God's faith and trust coupled with our own can we again fulfill a covenant and biological sustenance for meeting the future.
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| On the road to Pitlochry |
On The Road - First Stop Pitlochry
Late morning on Tuesday I finally got on the road in my Citroen, not without trepidation. Contemplating driving on the left side of the road is a challenge for anyone, least of all someone who has become accustomed to driving on the right side of the road for 40+ years. My route would take me past Loch Lomond of which I had originally hoped to stay for at least a night, but as my itinerary changed I had settled on Pitlochry as a good choice before reaching Inverness. I actually reached
Pitlochry in mid-afternoon, arriving at the very historic,
Moulin Hotel. My choices of stay for this trip were a random attempt to find a wee bit of flavor in Scotland. I managed that I think. Moulin is a perfect spot close to the town of Pitlochry for exploring and a brewery to boot. The landscape was beautiful as the weather had cleared and the temperature was a comfortable high 50s-low 60s range (and it stayed that way throughout the rest of my trip). My stop in Pitlochry actually was pretty feeble in that the area has many significant sites to explore and I begged off on all. Of course, remembering my challenge of driving on the other side of the road by myself is my excuse for minimizing my tourist engagement with the area. "Have portable Garmin will travel" with care and less spontaneity as a solo traveler, who carefully negotiates single tracks from the left side of the road.
My first real decision point during my trip came as I went through my morning ritual of shower, breakfast, and meds in the Moulin Hotel. It just so happened that a pre-trip challenge to stop in
St. Andrews weighed on my mind. Not that I am a fluent golfer, in fact I am a bad golfer, breaking 100 once in a blue moon. But, St Andrews it would be as my geographic nearness to the St. Andrews courses led me to town albeit not to golf. My trip to Inverness and Glendruidh would have to wait for my side trip to St. Andrews. St. Andrews was well worth the stop as you can see from my photograph. A bit of morning fog gave way to a brilliant day. A set of eight golf balls from the strategically placed St. Andrews Links golf shop was all that I would need - seven balls for esteemed golf buddies and the eighth for myself. My short stint in St. Andrews gave way to the road again as my Garmin mapped my route for me, straight to Glendruidh BB in Inverness. I reached my destination in late afternoon and settled in. I opted not to travel in to town with my rental car that evening, intending to save on the wear and tear of my effort in driving. But, after a delicious salmon meal at the Glendruidh (and a great conversation with one of the British owners, Mike, a marine engineer) I had Mike call me a cab and did I venture in to town to the Hootenanny. It was a great idea since I was hoping to hear some Scottish music, but at the same time the music would not start until much later that evening so aside from a beer and great conversation with some locals and other fellow travelers, I returned to my home base to retire for the night.
Point of Stoer
Destination Inverness reached, but another decision on my next steps this day: Isle of Skye, Loch Ness, or local sites (like the Culloden Battlefield). Today though, following my conversation with Mike last night I've decided to drive to the
Point of Stoer and see the
lighthouse there and if I am lucky maybe see some marine life. The highway road was halfway decent most of the way there, but narrowed to a single track at some point and I drank in the unusual Scottish landscape all the while watching for oncoming vehicles. For those who have not driven Scottish single tracks you drive gingerly all the while watching for oncoming vehicles. You meet a vehicle and the car nearest to a pull off spot dictates who backs up and pulls off. During the entire vacation every single vehicle that I met on a single track was more than courteous and waved. I appreciated it!
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| Lighthouse at Stoer |
The lighthouse at Stoer faces the Atlantic. A rugged coastline comparable to many across the world and reminded me of the Maine coastline. A grey day during which I really did not see any wildlife although I looked intently the whole time. I did do a several mile hike to the Old Man of Stoer, a 200+ high sea stack of sandstone north along the coast. The two-hour drive to the Point of Stoer meant that my day was pretty well shot between hiking and driving by the time I returned to the Glendruidh in early evening. It was a good day and reflected my trip and goals in Scotland. The trip wasn't so much to have a revelation, but to have a trip to engage and study the landscape and to reflect on theories and pre-history. The Lamont Clan record is more mythical than real - the Scottish landscape lends itself to that, a Tolkien-like, but un-written record.
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| Culloden Battlefield |
An Epic Drive in the Heart of the Highlands
A mapped route to Inverneill from Inverness is pretty straightforward, more straight than curvy and almost completely rural. The 4 hour or so drive turned in to one of the most memorable drives of my life. The beautiful, blue sky and warm day was a painted backdrop through and to enchanting lands. The
Culloden Battlefield and
Clava Cairn in Inverness were an incredible northern book end to my trip. Thence on to Loch Ness, still and blue, revealed little of its lore, but availed itself for an idyllic iPhone snapshot as did many other locations along the way. The travel to Inverneill and the Kilfinan View BB was unlike any drive that I have ever done.
More than anywhere and at anytime my drive highlighted the Highland essence and relations of water, land, and bygone cultures. The lochs and lakes of the Highlands surely served as critical routes and defensive barriers for the known Gaelic and Dal Riata cultures. Abrupt relief and rugged terrain were in evidence everywhere on my drive and at every bend a unique and colorful October scene greeted me. How do you read the landscape and discern so many nuances and stories to an old land that juggles humanity aside a dynamic ocean environment that portends to the past yet teaches for the future.
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| Temple Wood |
The highlight of my drive south though was my stop at
Temple Wood. Composed of standing stones and cairns you really have to stand beside one of the stones to understand the essence. There was one other couple there when I stopped, but we managed to walk from site to nearby site without disturbing one another. On a beautiful blue-sky afternoon how do you contemplate an ancient site that is more than a book, harkens back to some forgotten past and culture. Incredible for me. This site is one of many within the Kilmartin Valley.
I reached
Kilfinan View BB in Inverneill in late afternoon. Time enough to chat with the owner and plot my evening drive and meal. In the morning I would take the ferry in Tarbert so that would be my destination tonight to locate the ferry and a restaurant (the Starfish). My whole trip was attempt to balance scheduling and planning ahead with an equal amount of synchronicity or chance. I reached Tarbert before 1800 hours and the Starfish restaurant opening. So having parked I walked around the village along the shore of the bay as I waited for the restaurant to open. As luck would have it I noticed a sign and path to a castle, actually the Royal Castle of Tarbert. Sitting atop the hill on the southern shore of the bay, having but ruins and interpretive signs and yet still an important history and role in the Scottish past.
Kilfinan View BB and Loch Fyne
Mandy at the Kilfinan was extremely nice. The BB sits on
Loch Fyne and has a great view. If you are looking for a quaint, historical BB it probably isn't, but very nice and in a good location. This morning I had intended to catch the ferry over to Portavadie from Tarbert, but because of my short side trip yesterday to Temple Wood I decided to head back to Dunadd, located in the Kilmartin Valley to the north.
Dunadd is a hillfort from the Iron Age and earlier. Some accounts link the site to
Dál Riata and a seat of kings. I arrived in mid-morning, but before the Sun had a chance to burn off the fog. If you can imagine my climbing the several hundred feet high crag via a well-worn path above the surrounding lands and bog. I reached the top noting the interpretive signs and artifacts along the way. On top of Dunadd, the Sun had built an incredible view of fog and colored fall vegetation below and blue sky above me. From a geographic perspective I could envision any number of reasons for their location here. Obviously, the nearness of Loch Fyne to the east and a pathway to the open sea on the west were a factor. By some accounts the water levels were higher during the height of the culture. Either way, the culture had been established, had been successful, yet I still sensed there were more reasons than geographic that had prompted their siting here. Just north of Dunadd one can gain a more cohesive and rich immersion in the Kilmartin Valley story by stopping at the
Kilmartin Museum, which I did. The museum has rich artifacts that include carved stones and other artifacts from the past. There is also a distinct valley view from the landscape bench upon which it sits. One need only read the story to appreciate the view and what might have been.
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| Dunadd Hillfort, in the Kilmartin Valley |
Kilfinan
Cowal may be likened in form to Neptune's trident, extending seawards the three prongs of Ardlamont, Strone, and Toward Points, in which extremities were the vital parts of the Lamont country.
An early morning spent in Kilmartin Valley meant a late morning ferry ride from the Highland village of Tarbert over to Portavadie. The ferry ride really wasn't that long, but long enough to imagine the value of water in terms of transport and trade so long ago. My ultimate destination today is the Church at Kilfinan. First though, I unload myself and car in Portavadie (this past August's site of the Lamont Clan Gathering) and juggle my options for continuing. After much thought and movement I decide to head south on my drive to Ardlamont, one of the many Lamont sites found in
Cowal.
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| Ardlamont Point |
Ardlamont, in the 1800s, was built and owned by a Lamont family member. It is an incredibly beautiful area within the Highlands that hints at past life. My highlight for reaching the actual home was the single track drive (and views) to reach the mansion. But, my destination is Kilfinan. So, I reverse direction and head north to Kilfinan. Kilfinan is a small village set back from Loch Fyne. Via the single track road I reach Kilfinan and the chapel. I take various photographs, but since I had not scheduled a tour of the historic Lamont burial stones I wasn't able to visit the heart of what I had meant to see. Still, all in all, somehow my simple presence and sense of place was enough to explore and reflect on the past and how the modern configuration of the area tells a long story and one that remains.
The Road Home
The 18th saw me making the two hour or so drive from Kilfinan to the Glasgow Airport where I would catch a plane for London. My last night would be spent at the
Forester in Ealing, near
Picadilly Station. I arrived at the airport and dropped the car off at Avis. Thankfully, my portable Garmin GPS and Citroen car had performed flawlessly together! I caught a taxi to the Forester and some 30 minutes later arrived. I discovered that there are better ways to travel in London (it cost roughly 60 pounds) to take a taxi. Immediately after getting a room at the Forester I located the Picadilly Station nearby (thanks to a Forester employee's advice). My morning ride (after a 15 minute walk) would cost 8 pounds, this from the Forester to the Heathrow airport. It so happened that my evening dinner at the Forester was timed perfectly, I watched Scotland and Australia playing in the Rugby World Cup tournament that evening. I don't know rugby, but it was fun watching the patrons watch the game...My final day was uneventful, taking the long plane ride back to the states (with a stopover at LaGuardia) and Salt Lake.
But, as someone once said, "Remember who we once were and who we must become again." A tale for each of us and of an Arcadia of long ago...
Reference: The Lamont clan, 1235-1935 : seven centuries of clan history from record evidence
"So Inveryne, Ascog, and
Toward would flaunt by day from their battlements
the silver lion on the blue field, and by night would be gay with the light of
torches, the sound of the harp and the tales of the seannachies. About the houses of the lairds
and tacksmen the greens and blues of the tartan would reflect the sunlight,
which glinted often upon the naked steel which was carried by all men folk. On
the lochs the birlinns must have gleamed with targe and banner, the predecessors
of the present river steamers. But apart from these oases of civilisation (or
at any rate of society) there can only have been a wilderness of moorland and
dark waters."
"Despite the changes of the centuries,
however, the Lamont country has an essential sameness in all ages. The natural
attractions of outline and of colour are exactly now as they were ever,
although the hand of man has made more mark on them with the passage of time.
The strong curves of slope and shore, and the deep tones of mountain and sea,
are common to all eras in history. Such were the features of the clan territory
in the dark of time; such are they still; and such they are likely to remain
"till a' the seas gang dry." Long may they be left unspoiled in
tribute to the hosts that have gone out from them—and sweart they were to
go—across the seven seas of the world, with those bonds in common which have
kept them aye a clan."
Music: Andrew Lammie;
Julie Fowlis; The Piano Guys;
Archie Fisher
